Wildberry Sock
Materials: This pattern was written for any yarn size and any machine however I
used
Lion Brand Sports weight Wool-Ease on the LK 150 machine
Lion Brand sports weight Wool-Ease comes in a 5 oz ball (435 Yds/398 Meters).
The actual sock made on the LK 150 machine weighs (almost) 2 ozs. THIS is a
bargain! But beware, don’t buy a heather color (these were heather) the white
in the heather pills something awful and soon they aren’t wearable in public
(however they are great if you wear them around the house with slippers..
STITCH PATTERN:
Row 1 and 2. Knit
Row 3 and 4, *K2, P2 to end
This is easy to do on any machine. Just knit 4 rows and then reform the stitches
to make the P2's or you can use your garter carriage
on the standard machine.
BEFORE YOU KNIT:
Get some paper out and make a 3 rectangles on it. Mark the first rectangle, Leg;
the 2nd one Heel; the 3rd, Foot.
A. Measure your leg and decide how long you want the sock to be.
Mine is 6 inches including the top rib. Write your desired length next to the
leg rectangle.
B. Measure the width of your leg at the ankle (never mind that it's a little
larger 6 inches above that,
knits stretch...... Write your figure down as the width on that leg rectangle.
C. Measure your foot from the end to end. Subtract 2" (for the toe) and 2" (for
the heel)
Write that figure on the foot rectangle.
D. Measure your longest toe. Whatever your number is for this, we use the same
number for the heel.
Now, make your swatch using the pattern stitch. For the pattern I used tension 3
on the LK 150 which is a little tight for sports weight
but not too much. You don't want to knit this so tight it makes a hard fabric.
LEG:
E-wrap Cast on Width of leg (B above) (B times (x) stitches per inch.)
With carriage tension set 1 full number less than leg tension, RC 00, knit 12
rows and reform to make a K2, P2 ribbing.
Change carriage tension to pattern tension.
Don't change row count, continue knitting but change to pattern stitch above.
Knit required # of rows for leg. (A x rows per inch)
HEEL:
Divide the # of stitches ~ 1/4. Put 1/4 stitches on left on waste yarn. Put 1/4
stitches on right on waste yarn. You'll have 1/2 stitches
in the middle still on the needles. This section will be the top of your foot.
RC 00: Continue knitting in pattern the length of your foot (C x rows per inch).
TOE:
RC 00: Change carriage tension 1 full number tighter than leg tension. (Carriage
will remain at this tension for the remainder of the
sock and you'll be knitting plain stockinette)
Short row in and back out for toe like this:
1. Beginners, use your claw weights and keep moving them in so that they are
always under the work you are short rowing.
2. Put the carriage on Hold
3. * Pull the end needle next to the carriage out to hold and Knit across (1st
stitch won't knit).
Continue from * short rowing for 2". That is 2" x rows per inch. If your gauge
is 10 rows per inch, you would short row IN for 20
rows. That's 10 short rows on each side of the toe.
Once you have short rowed in for 2", go back out for 2" like this:
We'll be working on the center stitches:
1. *Wrap the first needles next to the needles in work on the carriage side and
push the needle opposite the carriage back into work.
(In both cases we are working on the middle needles, not the end needles).
2. Continue from * until you have all the needles back in work.
Now take the toe stitches off on waste yarn.
HEEL AND BOTTOM OF FOOT:
Keep tension at 1 full number less than pattern tension:
RC 00: Rehang the heel stitches that you had on waste yarn previously. Make sure
you hang so that the inside is facing you as before.
Hang the 2 pieces side ~ side centering the seam at 0.
Immediately start short rowing the heel just like you did the toe. 2" in and 2"
back out.
RC 00: When you are finished short rowing, continue knitting in stockinette
stitch the exact same # of rows you knit for the top of the
foot.
When finished, take the stitches off on waste yarn.
FINISHING:
Rehang the short rowed toe stitches (on waste)and push them back behind the
needle latches and hang the bottom of foot stitches
(also on waste) in front of the latches. Make sure you are hanging so that the
right sides are facing each other. DON'T TAKE THE
WASTE YARN OUT UNTIL YOU TAKE THE SOCK OFF THE MACHINE. Pull one set of stitches
through the other and latch
tool bind off.
OR
If you want, you can knit the foot, short row the toe, continue on for the
bottom of the foot and shortrow the heel. This puts the
seam behind the heel and would look best if Kitchener stitched when you finish.
It's up to you where the seam is but you are going to have to deal with a seam
someplace.
NO MATTER WHICH WAY YOU FINISH:
You'll now be finished except you have 2 side of foot seams to sew up and the
back of the leg to sew up. Because of the pattern stitch,
the seam is extremely easy to sew up with mattress stitch right on the edge of
the first stitch, trust me, the seam will never show and
my socks are extremely comfy, I can't feel seams..
©Rosalind Porter, Piney Mountain Cottage
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